Travel Journals X: Civil Disobedience?
Goa is a old Portuguese colony. if you have any doubts about that, you have only to look at the tile roofs, Catholic iconography, and the nearly sarcastic amount of things named after Vasco de Gama. you can taste the Portuguese influence in the cuisine. Carnival is still celebrated here.
at least most years it is....
My understanding of the details is a little hazy. The right Public official either didn't get the appropriate baksheesh or came down with a sudden and unprecedented attack of morals. in any case, Carnival did not get the appropriate licencing and it would not happen this year.
try explaining to a Ex-pat community full of backpackers, elderly hippies, and drunk Russians that they wouldn't be allowed to dance around the beach banging djembes in body glitter and see where you get.
By coincidence, i happened to be strolling along the northern end of Arambol Beach at around 4;30 in the afternoon. Imagine my surprise when i discovered that several hundred other people were also milling about, most of them, by complete accident of circumstances were in face paint, elaborate costumes, and carrying hula hoops, drums, juggling equipment, fire poi, and musical instruments!
The Arambol Police were not there by coincidence and didn't seem very happy about it, mostly because there was very little they could do. Rather than merely being a sulky khaki colored presence, they decided to interrogate Zuzu on the basis that he had organized most of the other (legal) Carnival festivities in the past. Zuzu had little to do with it but it gave the police something to do. had i been mere seconds faster with the camera, i would have had a great snapshot of a large middle aged man in a baby bonnet and diaper attempting to negotiate with six scowling Goan officers.
The illegal Carnival marched its way slowly down the beach, stopping at regular intervals to give everyone the opportunity to dance, take photos and watch the festivities. the crowd was mostly western, but a few bemused Indians got caught up in the juggernaut of moving cheering bodies and were welcomed into the throng. greetings were called back and forth and hugs were rampant, so that even those who were not originally wearing glitter glistened in the late day sun, there was, remarkably, no evidence of drinking or drugs to be seen. The police decided to tolerate the Carnival good naturedly until well after sunset when a large bonfire was assembled. feeling that duty couldn't permit this much fun, they kicked sand over the flames. the boos and chanting this produced were so loud you could hear them all the way from my guesthouse!
J
at least most years it is....
My understanding of the details is a little hazy. The right Public official either didn't get the appropriate baksheesh or came down with a sudden and unprecedented attack of morals. in any case, Carnival did not get the appropriate licencing and it would not happen this year.
try explaining to a Ex-pat community full of backpackers, elderly hippies, and drunk Russians that they wouldn't be allowed to dance around the beach banging djembes in body glitter and see where you get.
By coincidence, i happened to be strolling along the northern end of Arambol Beach at around 4;30 in the afternoon. Imagine my surprise when i discovered that several hundred other people were also milling about, most of them, by complete accident of circumstances were in face paint, elaborate costumes, and carrying hula hoops, drums, juggling equipment, fire poi, and musical instruments!
The Arambol Police were not there by coincidence and didn't seem very happy about it, mostly because there was very little they could do. Rather than merely being a sulky khaki colored presence, they decided to interrogate Zuzu on the basis that he had organized most of the other (legal) Carnival festivities in the past. Zuzu had little to do with it but it gave the police something to do. had i been mere seconds faster with the camera, i would have had a great snapshot of a large middle aged man in a baby bonnet and diaper attempting to negotiate with six scowling Goan officers.
The illegal Carnival marched its way slowly down the beach, stopping at regular intervals to give everyone the opportunity to dance, take photos and watch the festivities. the crowd was mostly western, but a few bemused Indians got caught up in the juggernaut of moving cheering bodies and were welcomed into the throng. greetings were called back and forth and hugs were rampant, so that even those who were not originally wearing glitter glistened in the late day sun, there was, remarkably, no evidence of drinking or drugs to be seen. The police decided to tolerate the Carnival good naturedly until well after sunset when a large bonfire was assembled. feeling that duty couldn't permit this much fun, they kicked sand over the flames. the boos and chanting this produced were so loud you could hear them all the way from my guesthouse!
J
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