Travel Journals IV: Shanti Shanti
Just after having been shaved, I decided to stop into the Evergreen Cafe, the last of the open air cafes found in Paradise beach. I ordered my chai. Anil, a diminutive Nepali who owns Evergreen brought it to me and waved aside my attempts to pay him.
"First you drink and enjoy, then you pay" he explained patiently "Shanti Shanti"
Shanti Shanti loosely translated means "take it easy " or "chill" It is a very important concept here in Paradise, sometimes to the point of absurdity. My landlord here is a middle aged Indian man with unnaturally orange hair named Manju. he also runs Surya cafe, which is by general consensus the best food on the beach. The only time I've ever seen Manju's permanent grin falter is if someone attempts to pay off their tab. He acts as though this is a minor and unintentional insult, and repeatedly assures you that you can do it tomorrow. it is very difficult to give Manju money.
to give you some idea of the general atmosphere here: the Gokarna Police department's primary activity appears to be posting hysterical and unintentionally humorous signs to warn you of seemingly imaginary perils. they warn you in the strongest possible terms to stay off the rocks, not go hiking at night (The decision is dangerous!) but mostly their signs warn of the hazards of swimming. This is an activity that the Gokarnan law enforcement ranks somewhere between bear baiting and Russian roulette. they post signs warning you of your imminent demise in a watery grave all over Paradise, Om beach and even Kudle where the ocean is the clearest and gentlest i have ever seen. the signs apparently commemorate the tragic events of the day when somebody stepped on a crab and got quite a severe pinch!
If you live in a place for more than three days you find yourself falling into a natural routine. My usual morning starts out at dawn (I can't believe it either!) i pull on some clothing, brush my teeth and gather a few essentials and am off for my morning hike. i usually go into the jungles where i routinely see kites, bulbul, and monkeys not to mention a large number of as yet unidentified birds (i am in the city of Gokarna on a supply run right now, where I've finally found a decent field guide.) i wander around in awe for a few hours and push my way back to "base camp" by mid morning. where i change into my trunks and go for my first swim of the day to wash off the trail dirt and work up an appetite for breakfast under the palms at Om Shanti Garden. breakfast is a casual affair consisting of chai, fruit lassi, and either chapati baji or parota depending on my mood. the food is simple and light and the atmosphere so relaxed that you often have to gently remind the staff that you've ordered something. they'd much rather sit around and chat with you than make food. who's to blame them really? the next regular activity is a brief nap to avoid the afternoon heat after which i go for another swim, take a shower, and get ready for the biggest event of the day: Sunset. sunset is treated almost as a theatrical event. the competition for a good watching spot is pretty fierce. people are jockeying for the best places as much as an hour beforehand. fortunately for me, one of the best vistas to watch the sun sink into the water is from the hammock on my porch. once the last rays have retreated beyond the horizon, i am faced with a very important decision: should i have fish thali or birani at Manju's tonight?
it's a rough life!
Just after having been shaved, I decided to stop into the Evergreen Cafe, the last of the open air cafes found in Paradise beach. I ordered my chai. Anil, a diminutive Nepali who owns Evergreen brought it to me and waved aside my attempts to pay him.
"First you drink and enjoy, then you pay" he explained patiently "Shanti Shanti"
Shanti Shanti loosely translated means "take it easy " or "chill" It is a very important concept here in Paradise, sometimes to the point of absurdity. My landlord here is a middle aged Indian man with unnaturally orange hair named Manju. he also runs Surya cafe, which is by general consensus the best food on the beach. The only time I've ever seen Manju's permanent grin falter is if someone attempts to pay off their tab. He acts as though this is a minor and unintentional insult, and repeatedly assures you that you can do it tomorrow. it is very difficult to give Manju money.
to give you some idea of the general atmosphere here: the Gokarna Police department's primary activity appears to be posting hysterical and unintentionally humorous signs to warn you of seemingly imaginary perils. they warn you in the strongest possible terms to stay off the rocks, not go hiking at night (The decision is dangerous!) but mostly their signs warn of the hazards of swimming. This is an activity that the Gokarnan law enforcement ranks somewhere between bear baiting and Russian roulette. they post signs warning you of your imminent demise in a watery grave all over Paradise, Om beach and even Kudle where the ocean is the clearest and gentlest i have ever seen. the signs apparently commemorate the tragic events of the day when somebody stepped on a crab and got quite a severe pinch!
If you live in a place for more than three days you find yourself falling into a natural routine. My usual morning starts out at dawn (I can't believe it either!) i pull on some clothing, brush my teeth and gather a few essentials and am off for my morning hike. i usually go into the jungles where i routinely see kites, bulbul, and monkeys not to mention a large number of as yet unidentified birds (i am in the city of Gokarna on a supply run right now, where I've finally found a decent field guide.) i wander around in awe for a few hours and push my way back to "base camp" by mid morning. where i change into my trunks and go for my first swim of the day to wash off the trail dirt and work up an appetite for breakfast under the palms at Om Shanti Garden. breakfast is a casual affair consisting of chai, fruit lassi, and either chapati baji or parota depending on my mood. the food is simple and light and the atmosphere so relaxed that you often have to gently remind the staff that you've ordered something. they'd much rather sit around and chat with you than make food. who's to blame them really? the next regular activity is a brief nap to avoid the afternoon heat after which i go for another swim, take a shower, and get ready for the biggest event of the day: Sunset. sunset is treated almost as a theatrical event. the competition for a good watching spot is pretty fierce. people are jockeying for the best places as much as an hour beforehand. fortunately for me, one of the best vistas to watch the sun sink into the water is from the hammock on my porch. once the last rays have retreated beyond the horizon, i am faced with a very important decision: should i have fish thali or birani at Manju's tonight?
it's a rough life!
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